From the Oct., 2013 Bon Appétit

Unlike summer when my idea of the perfect breakfast is a bowl of Grape Nuts buried under a mound of fat blackberries, something about the arrival of fall puts me in the mood for a more substantial start to the day—the sort of meal that could power me through a game of touch-football if I was ever inclined to do such a thing (which, of course, I’m not). For that reason, and because Alfredo and I are still trying to steer clear of flour and grains (though I did eat some couscous last night; it arrived with my dinner and I couldn’t resist), the attached frittata recipe jumped out at me, insisting I give it a try. That in and of itself was surprising, since as a rule I’m generally not much of a frittata fan. For one thing I prefer my eggs on the wet side—a quality that by its very nature a frittata can’t deliver—and for another, the dish has always struck me as a little played-out… the sort of thing you see on a menu and then glaze over. But this version had a few things going for it that got me excited, namely chorizo sausage, broccoli rabe, and grated cheddar cheese (which I swapped out for Manchego; more on that later).

Really it was the broccoli rabe that grabbed me initially, since I’ve been having a love affair with this leafy green for the past few months. I’m not sure why it took so long for me to warm to its charms, but now that I have I can’t get enough of its slightly bitter flavor, or with the way it lends itself to so many of the things I love—namely garlic, olive oil, and, of course, sausage. In fact, one of my favorite weeknight dinners of late has been sautéed broccoli rabe with chunks of hot Italian sausage, an idea that came to me as I was picking through a friend’s unfinished dish of Cavatelli Pugliese and discovered it wasn’t the pasta that interested me so much as the bits of sausage and strands of tender broccoli rabe that are the noodles’ co-stars. So here was a breakfast dish that combined those same two enticing ingredients, but wrapped them in an airy egg mixture, not to mention a glaze of salty cheese. In other words, what’s not to love?

Unlike an omelet where the various add-ons are introduced to eggs that have already been cooked through, a frittata generally calls for folding your various savory ingredients into the uncooked egg mixture, then pouring the combo into your skillet and allowing the whole thing to bake together—first on the stove and then under the broiler. In the case of this recipe, however, it’s the cheese (or a portion of it, anyway) and the whole milk that’s added to the eggs, and the resulting eggy mixture that’s then introduced to the other ingredients. These include half a medium-sized onion that’s been chopped and allowed to cook over medium heat alongside a ½ lb of fresh chorizo sausage (removed from its casings) for eight minutes or so, or until the onion is tender, the meat is brown, and your tongue is hanging out of your mouth because the combination smells so good. To this you add your pile of chopped broccoli rabe—seasoned generously with salt and pepper—a sizable mound that’s likely to push your skillet to capacity and make stirring a challenge (if so, introduce the greens in increments, adding the remainder as it cooks down).

Once the greens are tender (including the thick, stalky bits)—a state that will also mean the entire combination is now sitting comfortably in your pan—it’s time to reduce the heat to low and add the eggs, pouring the mixture evenly across the surface of the sautéed sausage and broccoli rabe. At this point you can pretty much step back and read the Sunday papers for a while, since the secret to a frittata is slow cooking. Here that means a relatively long 10 to 12 minutes, a period during which the contents of the pan will require nothing more from you than the occasional shake to discourage sticking. Once the edges are just set, sprinkle the surface with the remaining cheese and slide your pan under the broiler for four minutes or so, until the top of the frittata is golden brown and the center is set. Remove from the oven, slice, and serve—either warm or at room temperature. Which brings me to one of the distinct advantages of a frittata over other breakfast egg dishes: because of its baked, quiche-like quality, it doesn’t have to be eaten right out of the oven, but can be enjoyed hours, even a day, later. (Anyone for leftovers?).

And regarding my switch from cheddar to Manchego, I made the substitution for the simple reason that I’m leaning towards sheep’s- over cow’s-milk cheeses these days—and also because I love the nutty, salty flavor of Manchego (which I just happened to have a quantity of in the fridge). Cheddar will probably melt a little better, and no doubt it will imbue the finished dish with a sunnier, more lustrous appearance, but I liked the subtle, salty kick offered by the Manchego. Either way, the net result is a healthy, homey breakfast that can feed a crowd… or in my case, two over-eaters.

Ingredients:
—12 large eggs
—1/2 cup whole milk
—3/4 cup grated cheddar, divided
—Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
—2 tbs vegetable oil
—1/2 medium onion, chopped
—1/2 lb. fresh Spanish chorizo or hot Italian sausage link, casings removed
—1 bunch broccoli rabe, coarsely chopped

Directions:
—Preheat broiler. Whisk eggs and milk in a medium bowl. Mix in ½ cup cheddar; season with salt and pepper and set aside.
—Heat oil in a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. Add onion and chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and chorizo is brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
—Add broccoli rabe; season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes longer.
—Reduce heat to low and pour reserved egg mixture over vegetables. Cook, shaking pan occasionally, until edges are just set, 10 to 12 minutes.
—Top frittata with remaining ¼ cup cheddar; broil until top is golden brown and center is set, about 4 minutes longer.
—Cut frittata into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.
—Note: Frittata can be made 2 hours ahead. Let cool, then cover.

The post 10/02/13 • SAUSAGE FRITTATA appeared first on THE RECIPE GRINDER.

Adapted from the May, 2012 Bon Appétit

As a kid any number of things could make an appearance in my lunchbox that would immediately cause me to slam it shut, or propel me to the nearest trash can (lest any of my classmates catch sight of the offending item and start their humiliating chorus of Ewwwwwwwww!s). Among these reactive items: liverwurst, Brie and onions on a baguette (my mom was way ahead of the curve on this one—uncomfortably so), Campbell’s Scotch Broth soup (which I still detest), and egg salad. The irony is that many of these items were ones I would have been only too happy to eat in the privacy of my own home, but that surrounded by a roomful of rabid ten-years-olds, none of whom was eating anything more exotic than a bologna and cheese sandwich, were tantamount to social suicide. Back then I’d rather go hungry than take the chance of public, food-related humiliation. (And if I was lucky, I still might be able to negotiate a piece of my neighbor’s Yodel.)

In other words, the egg salad recipe I bring to you here is exactly the sort of thing I would have cursed my mom for thinking I could safely carry into the lions’ den that was elementary school. Because if plain old boring egg salad was the source of countless comments and curled lips, then one featuring such ingredients as shallot and vinegar and curry would have required adult-sized courage (and taste-buds) to even consider eating. Which is to say, it’s precisely the kind of egg salad I’d be only too happy to discover in my lunchbox today, and no doubt one reason I immediately flagged the recipe when I came across it last spring, in the May issue of Bon Appétit.

The recipe was actually part of a special Mother’s Day menu, with the egg salad intended for miniature pita pockets—an update, I suppose, on old-school finger sandwiches. That part didn’t appeal to me so much (when it comes to sandwiches, I generally prefer the two-fisted variety), but I loved the idea of adding curry and cumin to the cooked eggs. And when I discovered that a quantity of cider vinegar was also called for, well, suffice to say it wasn’t long before I was in the kitchen and the requisite eggs had been put on to boil. In truth, I’m a big fan of egg salad—or maybe I should say, the possibility of egg salad. Because the reality is that egg salad rarely lives up to its potential, at least as measured by the outsize satisfaction I derive from deviled eggs. And aside from a slight textural difference, and the fact that the two are consumed in different ways, there really is no good reason that the one should be any less satisfying than the other.

Be that as it may, there’s generally a wide gap between the two experiences, with egg salad’s shortcomings tending to fall within two distinct categories: texture and taste. Now I realize there are those who will disagree with me here, but to my way of thinking, an egg salad is best when it’s creamy—much like the interior of those deviled eggs I mentioned earlier. That’s something I rarely encounter in store- or restaurant-bought egg salad, and, in fact, it’s not necessarily even a quality of the egg salad I bring to you here, as the instructions call for chopping the four hard-boiled eggs listed in the recipe. Chopping, of course, will deliver that chunky texture most people associate with egg salad, but as I like things a little smoother, instead of using a fork to break up the eggs, I used a potato masher—an implement which rendered the bits of egg both smaller and more uniform than the alternate method, and which, with the addition of the ¼ cup of mayonnaise called for, resulted in something delightfully creamy. Of course, chunky is fine, too, but the latter approach definitely gets my vote.

As for taste, unlike the standard egg salad, which calls for little more than mayo, salt, pepper, and maybe a dash of mustard in the mix, this recipe more than rises to the flavor challenge, adding a variety of ingredients that keep things exciting while never drowning out the all-important “eggy-ness” of the finished dish. In other words, exactly the sorts of ingredients one would find in those well-loved deviled eggs. Principal among these additions is a ½ teaspoon of curry powder, which lends the finished product an unexpected hint of the exotic. And if you think the combination of curry and mayonnaise might team up to create something overwhelming, even cloying, the presence of the Dijon mustard and cider vinegar here offers just the acidic note needed to cut through the richness, while at the same time perfectly rounding out the various other flavors. Add a little cumin (that deviled egg standard), as well as a small amount of chopped shallot and scallion for a little more tang and a bit of textural interest, and you have a combo that raises egg salad to a whole other level.

That said, there is one ingredient in the recipe that I don’t endorse, and that is the Granny Smith apple—an item BA suggests peeling and cutting into small pieces before adding to the mixture. The impulse to introduce something sweet here is one I appreciate, just as I do the added crunch the apple brings to the mix, but neither are components I’m really looking for in my egg salad, particularly one that already delivers so effectively on both the taste and texture trajectory. Still, give it a try; what may be overkill for my palate could prove the magic ingredient for yours. Either way, one thing you don’t want to skip is the sprig of watercress the magazine suggests using to garnish the sandwich—a bright, slightly bitter addition that proves the perfect foil to this tantalizing array of flavors.

What? You’re not already in the kitchen? Then I should probably also mention that there’s nothing more challenging or time consuming involved in preparing this variety of egg salad than the ho-hum version you’ve likely been eating for most of your life. I love that, just as I love discovering a way to introduce a little excitement into something that’s usually so entirely forgettable. For what it’s worth, I’d choose this new and improved egg salad over a Yodel any day.

TRG’s modified ingredients:
—1/4 cup mayonnaise
—2 tbs scallion, thinly sliced
—1 tbs shallot, minced
—1½ tbs apple cider vinegar
—1½ tsp Dijon mustard
—1/2 tsp (heaping) curry powder
—1/4 tsp ground cumin
—4 large hard-boiled eggs, chopped (see TRG’s note #1, below, as well as foolproof instructions for hard-cooking eggs, at the bottom of this posting)
—1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch cubes (see TRG’s note #2, below)
—Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
—Fresh black bread, whole wheat bread, or other good quality sandwich bread
—Watercress sprigs (for garnish)

TRG note #1: Eggs can be mashed with a strong fork, or, if you like a creamier consistency, try using a potato masher.

TRG note #2: I love apples, but not in my egg salad; I omitted them here.

TRG’s modified directions:
—Whisk mayonnaise, scallion, shallot, apple cider vinegar, mustard, curry powder, and cumin in a large bowl. Fold in eggs and apple (if using). Season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
—Divide among four slices of bread and top with watercress sprigs.

TRG’s directions for hard-cooking eggs:
—Place eggs in a saucepan and cover with one inch of water. Place pan over medium high heat and bring water to a rapid boil.
—Take the pan off heat, cover, and let sit for 15 minutes.
—Immediately plunge the cooked eggs into ice water to stop the cooking. Peel and eat.

Makes 4 sandwiches

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