Adapted from the June/July, 2013 Fine Cooking

The heat is on here in the northeast, and in a sustained way I can’t remember experiencing before. Or maybe I just have a short memory for discomfort… though I tend to like summer weather, a sentiment I’m definitely not experiencing this time around. More likely it’s a combination of the temperature being higher than usual, and the fact that my foot and the lower part of my leg are encased in a spongy black material, the various panels of which are held in place by wide strips of industrial grade Velcro. (My torn tendon is healing but the 5-pound boot that’s helping it to get there must stay in place for at least another few months.) It’s a combination that can make the daily question of “What’s for dinner?” a particularly daunting one, especially when posed at the end of a torrid day as I limp home all flushed and sticky. Sometimes the answer is as simple as a salad, or if I’m feeling particularly wrung out, a few generous pats of goat cheese smeared across stalks of cold celery (and eaten right out of the fridge). Other times, though, something more filling is called for. On those occasions I tend to be drawn to the sorts of exotic dishes one might find in some far-flung destination where warm weather is a way of life. I suppose that’s one reason I was drawn to this dish for spiced lamb patties with apricot couscous.

Weirdly, lamb is something I’ve tended to stay away from in the past, and especially when the temperature rises. My trip to Morocco last December, however, seems to have changed that view, as it opened my eyes not just to the pleasures of lamb but also to how well-suited it is to warm weather eating—as long at it’s paired with the right ingredients. Although this dish (which I found in a recent edition of Fine Cooking) has more in common with Middle Eastern cooking than it does North African, it does bear certain similarities to the lamb dishes I sampled on my trip to Marrakesh in that it offsets the rich flavor of the meat with bright notes offered by things like lemon, olives, and a variety of dried fruit. Here that quality is achieved through the presence of three principal ingredients, namely dried apricots (which are mixed into the couscous accompanying the dish), plain yogurt (which is added to the meat before cooking and which also serves as a sauce to cut the richness of the meat), and fresh mint (which is added to the yogurt sauce, as well as sprinkled over the finished dish). Together these ingredients—the tart apricots, the tangy yogurt, the cool mint—provide the lamb with just the lift it needs to feel summery and bright, while still having the heft of a proper meal.

And none of the dish’s various elements require much time in the kitchen, which is a good thing since no one wants to stand over a hot stove when it’s this warm outside. Couscous, of course, is always simple, and this version requires nothing more than bringing some chicken broth, the diced apricots, and a little salt and cumin to a boil over high heat, stirring in the grain, then removing it from the heat and covering the mixture for 5 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed. And since the other elements require so little time to come together, once the couscous is cooked you can pretty much forget about it, simply fluffing the grain with a fork and adding a little olive oil and salt just before serving. I should also mention that while I played with the idea of some other accompaniments here—mashed cauliflower, say, or sautéed greens—ultimately I think the couscous is best. For one thing it just feels right in the company of the lamb and the yogurt. And for another, the sweet/tart note of the fruit gives the dish just the added zip it needs, not a mention a jolt of sunshine-y color.

As for the lamb, this is mixed with a tablespoon of yogurt (to help keep things moist), two large cloves of garlic (mashed to a paste with a pinch of kosher salt), and a little coriander, cumin, salt and pepper—a combination that imbues the meat with a subtly exotic spiciness. Once all the ingredients have been evenly distributed, divide the meat into eight patties, each about a ½-inch thick. These are then fried—and tuned once—over medium-high heat in a heavy skillet containing 2 tablespoons of hot olive oil (shimmering but not smoking) for between 5 and 7 minutes. The lamb is done when the exterior is browned and crispy and the centers are light pink. Be careful not to overcook the patties though as they’ll toughen up (a risk that comes with over-mixing the meat, as well, so be careful).

All that remains is to prepare the yogurt accompaniment, which simply requires stirring a little chopped fresh mint into some plain Greek yogurt. That said, when it came to serving the meal I did find myself wishing there was more sauce to spoon on to each plate, so instead of the quantities listed in the original recipe, I suggest doubling the ingredients—to 8 tablespoons of yogurt and 4 tablespoons of mint. The cool flavor and temperature of the combo is just what the lamb needs, so you’ll want to make sure you have enough for every delicious bite.

And with that the words “heat wave” begin to sound kind of appealing. Stay cool everyone.

Ingredients:
—2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
—3 ½ oz dried apricots, cut into medium dice (about ½ cup)
—Kosher salt
—1 tsp ground cumin
—1 1/3 cups couscous
—1¼ ground lamb
—5 tbs plain Greek yogurt, divided (TRG note: I recommend doubling the yogurt mint sauce, which would mean 9 tbs of the yogurt)
—2 large cloves garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt
—1 tsp ground coriander
—Freshly ground black pepper
—3 tbs extra-virgin olive oil
—2 tbs finely chopped fresh mint; more for garnish (TRG note: I recommend doubling the yogurt mint sauce, which would mean 4 tbs of the mint)

Directions:
—In a 3 qt. saucepan, combine the chicken broth, apricots, ½ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp of the cumin; bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the couscous, remove from the heat, and cover. Let sit until all of the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 minutes.
—Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the lamb, 1 tbs of the yogurt, the garlic, coriander, the remaining ¾ tsp of the cumin, 1 tsp salt, and ½ tsp pepper. Mix by hand, taking care not to overwork the mixture. Shape into eight ½-inch patties.
—Heat 2 tbs of the oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the patties and cook, flipping once, until browned on the outside and barely light pink in the center, 5 to 7 minutes. (TRG note: be careful not to overcook or the patties will be dry and tough.)
—Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining 4 tbs yogurt and the mint. (TRG note: I ended up doubling the yogurt sauce as I didn’t feel the recipe, as written provided enough. If you do this you will need 8 tbs of yogurt and 4 tbs of chopped mint)
—Fluff the couscous with a fork. Mix in the remaining 1 tbs oil and season with salt and pepper. Divide the couscous and patties among four plates. Add a dollop of the minted yogurt on the side and garnish with additional mint.

Serves 4

The post 07/17/13 • SPICED LAMB PATTIES appeared first on THE RECIPE GRINDER.

Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi

Last week a group of friends came over to watch the Golden Globes and the squash purée you see before you is one of the things I made. I’ve always loved hummus and thought this recently discovered recipe might offer a nice alternative to that Middle Eastern classic. Here the use of butternut squash and the date (or maple) syrup takes the place of the chickpeas and the lemon—a combination that makes for a sweeter experience overall, as opposed to the tart/tangy quality one associates with hummus. I love anything tart and lemony, of course, whereas I’m generally less drawn to the sweeter end of the spectrum. Still, I figured if there was any occasion that called for deviating from the standard fare, an(other) awards show dinner was it (though the Globe’s co-hosts, Tina Fey and Amy Poehler, more than did their part to keep things interesting). And upon further reflection, it also occurs to me that my recently completed journey through Morocco may have awakened in me an appetite for the exotic—something this spread satisfies in a way that hummus (widely available in most U.S. markets now) simply can’t. Which is not to say this dish approximates anything I sampled in Marrakesh, unless you count the way sweetness is featured in things other than dessert there (a phenomenon I encountered at nearly every meal). Whatever the case, this recipe spoke to me.

It’s one I found in Yotam Ottolenghi and Sam Tamimi’s new cookbook, Jerusalem. I’m sure many of you have heard of these two (or at least of Ottolenghi, who is the better known—he was the subject of a recent profile in The New Yorker), but for those who haven’t, this is the third cookbook from the pair (the others are Plenty and the eponymously named Ottolenghi). Either way, the two have understandably become a bona-fide culinary phenomenon in London where they own and operate several restaurants offering a mash-up of dishes inspired by ingredients and recipes featured in that broad swath of the planet known as “the Middle East.” They also do amazing things with vegetables, so if you’re looking for interesting vegetarian options, their books are a great resource (a side note: though Ottolenghi wrote the vegetarian cooking column in The Guardian for many years, he is, in fact, a meat eater, which is perhaps why I tend to find his vegetarian recipes so appealing).

That was certainly my reaction when I came across this recipe, and one I credit at least in part to the presence of the tahini, the Greek yogurt, the garlic, and the sesame seeds—all components I felt had the potential to produce something interesting when married with the natural sweetness of the squash. But I’m getting ahead of myself; before any of those ingredients are introduced, one must first tackle the peeling of the squash and the carving of it into chunks. Once that’s complete, the resulting one-inch (or so) pieces are tossed in a roasting pan with some salt and cinnamon before the whole mixture is slid into a 400˚ oven for 70 minutes, or until the squash is fork tender. Easy stuff, though if you’ve never peeled a butternut squash before (I had not) be prepared to lay down your vegetable peeler and pick up a paring knife instead. This bears mentioning because the shape and contours of the squash are such that much of it is simply not accessible by a peeler’s blade, and can only be reached with the aide of a sharp knife. That said, don’t worry if the knife inadvertently removes some of the vegetable’s flesh (which, unless you have the carving skills of Michelangelo, it probably will); if you’ve selected a very large squash as directed there will still be more than enough to work with.

I point this out because when I emptied the contents of the pan into my food processor (after allowing the squash to cool, something achieved in little more than half an hour), I found I had quite a lot of squash to work with—not so much that it wouldn’t all fit into the bowl, but close to it. And once I whirred it all together with the tahini, the yogurt, and the garlic I discovered I had considerably more than was needed for the ten people who’d be snacking on it. That said, if you were to serve it as a side dish (which, incidentally, is not one of the scenarios suggested by the recipe’s creators), the quantity produced would quite adequately feed four big-eaters. It’s an option I encourage you to consider as the mix of flavors—the sweetness of the squash, the tang of the tahini and the yogurt, and the concentrated hit of sugar delivered by the syrup drizzled across the surface of the spread just before serving (along with those sesame seeds and some chopped cilantro)—offer a welcome counterpoint to, say, a few thick slices of pork tenderloin.

Of course, the spread is also immensely satisfying in the context Tamimi and Ottolenghi propose: as an appetizer, served with bread. I offered it with warm pita slices, and while I acknowledge feeling a little anxious about how it would be received (in large part because of its sweetness) it was a big hit and largely devoured by the time the main course made its way to the table. For me, part of the appeal can be attributed to the liberal sprinkling of those sesame seeds in the final moments of preparation (use black as well as white if you can find them, for no other reason than they look so good!), along with a few tablespoons of freshly chopped cilantro, and it makes as warm and sunny a statement on the plate as it does when it reaches your mouth. In other words, it’s just the thing to brighten up these cold, gray days of winter.

Ingredients:
—1 very large butternut squash (about 2½ lbs), peeled and cut into chuncks (7 cups total)
—3 tbs olive oil
—1 tsp ground cinnamon
—5 tbs light tahini paste
—1/2 cup Greek yogurt
—2 small cloves garlic, crushed
—1 tsp mixed black and white sesame seeds (or just white if you don’t have black)
—1½ tsp date syrup (or maple syrup or molasses if you can’t find date syrup)
—2 tbs chopped cilantro (optional)
—Salt
—Pita or other bread (for serving)

Note: Date syrup can be found at many health food stores and Middle Eastern groceries.

Directions:
—Preheat the oven to 400˚F.
—Spread the squash out in a medium roasting pan. Pour over the olive oil and sprinkle on the cinnamon and ½ teaspoon salt. Mix together well, cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil, and roast in the oven for 70 minutes, stirring once during the cooking process. Remove from the oven and let cool.
—Transfer the squash to a food processor, along with the tahini, yogurt, and garlic. Roughly pulse so that everything is combined into a coarse paste, without the spread becoming smooth (you can also do this by hand using a fork or potato masher).
—Spread the squash purée in a wavy pattern over a plate and sprinkle with the sesame seeds, drizzle over the syrup, and finish with the cilantro, if using.
—Serve as an appetizer with bread (warm pita is ideal) or as part of a selection of small Middle Eastern dishes.

Serves 6 to 8

The post 01/24/13 • SUPER SQUASH SPREAD appeared first on THE RECIPE GRINDER.