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12/13/12 • HUNGRY-MAN’S HUNGARIAN-GOULASH Adapted from The Hamptons: Food, Family, and History, by Ricky Lauren (Wiley) Long before I recognized my mom for the excellent cook she is, it was my German-born grandmother who I held up as the master of all things kitchen-related. Her name was Freda Schloss (Nana Freda to me), and it was she who introduced me to things like herring in cream sauce, and poached eggs sp