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06/11/14 • BRAISED FISH “STEW” From the Feb. 9, 2014 New York Times Magazine  It’s been such a long time since my last appearance here that I don’t really know where to begin. Aside from the general rustiness—and associated writer’s block—that seems to have set in after an absence of so many months, there’s the challenge of condensing into a few readable paragraphs what has undoubtedly been one of the mos

10/30/13 • JACQUES PÉPIN’S BEEF STEW From the April, 2007 Food and Wine Towards the end of last winter, as the days were getting longer and the damp, New York City chill was just beginning to loosen its pincer-like grip, I made a dish I’m often drawn to when it’s cold outside: beef stew. From this you might assume that stew is a particular favorite of mine, and it’s true that when said dish features a rich, robust sa

03/21/13 • ITALIAN VEGETABLE STEW Adapted from the March, 2013 Bon Appétit Last month I attended a friend’s birthday dinner, and seated to both my left and my right were vegetarians. Ten years ago I could count on one hand the number of people I knew who had eliminated meat from their diet, and now I was surrounded by them! Of course, the same scenario could just as easily have occurred in the ’90s. But the chances o

12/13/12 • HUNGRY-MAN’S HUNGARIAN-GOULASH Adapted from The Hamptons: Food, Family, and History, by Ricky Lauren (Wiley) Long before I recognized my mom for the excellent cook she is, it was my German-born grandmother who I held up as the master of all things kitchen-related. Her name was Freda Schloss (Nana Freda to me), and it was she who introduced me to things like herring in cream sauce, and poached eggs sp

11/10/11 • SAUSAGE STEW From the Oct., 2011 Food & Wine I tend to think of stew as a uniquely American creation. This may have something to do with the fact that one of the first stews I ever knew and loved was a classic beef variety that the housekeeper at my dad and step-mother’s house used to make for us when I was a kid. Her name was Helen and while I can’t claim to ever having been one of her favorites (she